A Bird Watching Trip to Spain. Click on any photo for better resolution
The long journey back from Monfragüe to Faro on the motorway was relativley painless and the end of another super holiday.
I would wholeheartedly recommend visiting these areas of Spain, however with the benefit of hindsight we should have certainly spent more time at Doñana National Park and less time in the heart of the Extremadura.
Our penultimate day, so we thought that a second visit to Trujillo was in order and this time we not only managed to find the Bullring but also the centre of the town, which an old fortress stands proud of all the other buildings.
Starting off at the Bullring, which you cannot believe is still allowed to exist in a so called modern EU country, and the Lesser Kestrel, which is almost guaranteed to be seen here did not disappoint, with at least 3 or 4 birds present.
We walked up to the centre of the town and took in the local atmosphere. Both Common and Pallid Swifts were present but totally impossible to distinguish one from the other species.
After lunch we returned for a final visit to Monfragüe and the Pena-falcon view point. We managed to see Iberian Shrike on the journey North and all the usual birds were visible from the viewing area.
A drive into the Monfragüe National Park and the stunning scenery is worth the visit alone. First stop was a small dam at Tajadilla picnic area which apart from Griffon Vulture and a distant calling Golden Oriel was relatively quiet. However after a few more miles we came upon the site for Spanish Imperial Eagle. This site was packed with birders and is a well known nest site for this symbolic bird. Within a few minutes we have found the nest, which included one small Eaglet and both ♂ and ♀ birds were busy flying around.
Also in the area was a Golden Oriole nest which sadly was made of plastic bags. Both ♂ and ♀ birds were seen flitting into the nest but neither were really visible, and for such a brightly dynamic bird they are extremely difficult to see.
After leaving the park we headed to the Wetlands of Sauce Dilla. This was quite a drive and sadly was no where near as good as Doñana National Park. It was incredibly hot and the Visitor centre was closed for lunch. However after the Siesta it re-opened and signing a key out gave us hope that something good was bound to be present. Most of the birds were keeping out of the heat as temperatures were now in the early 30°C and getting hotter by the hour. Great White Egret, Purple Heron, Purple Swamphen and a couple of very distant Terns (probably Caspian) were seen around the reserve, but in my opinion stay an extra day in Doñana.
After another lovely meal in our new hotel we heading out around 10pm and at site near Torrejon el Rubio we finally heard the weird and wonderful Red-Necked Nightjar. Sadly the bird calling was very distant so never got to see it, but it was obvious straight away what it was.
After a few days in the heart of the Spanish Plains it was time to head up to the Monfragüe National Park. On the way from Talavan we stopped off at the Black Shoulder Kite site again, but as per previous days the birds don’t appear to be in the area.
We finally arrived in the park just after lunch and the spectacular scenery is stunning. Views from every angle and birds everywhere. The Pena-Falcon viewpoint is a wonderful place to stop and scan around and birds included many Griffon Vultures, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting, Black Stork, Egyptian Vulture, Peregrine and Black Redstart.
Viewing the Vultures soaring over your head is magical and they are numerous around the rocks. Fortunately Black Storks breed in the same area and the odd Egyptian Vulture can be seen.
A day spent deep in Extremadura and in particular the Plains, where the morning was spent looking for Bustards, but sadly the birds weren’t showing. The car journey towards the area allowed many stops, one in particular at a bridge over the river Rio Amonte and a first sighting of Spanish Sparrow with Bee Eater, Raven, Jay, Red Kite, Blue Tit and Chaffinch.
A couple of hours in the depth of the Spanish Plains provided the only time I heard Quail the whole of the trip. I was expecting Quail to be very common but this was not the case. I’m sure the birds are there but not where we were.
Afer lunch we headed back towards the Montys site and were rewarded with 2 Little Bustard overhead and a small flock of Sand-Grouse species, but they were a long distance away and made identification impossible.
Another gorgeous day and we headed off after another hopeless attempt at trying to find food at the local Talavan shop. The fruit they had, which you assumed would be fresh and local, wouldn’t have even made it onto our shop shelves. Strange to think they grow Fruit galore and the locals have to put up with what I would consider rubbish, but hey what do we know.
First stop was to the well known area to search for the Steppe species and in particular, Montagu’s Harrier, which was in an area deep into the Spanish Plains and indicative of Extremadura.
The highpoint on the Road between Monroy and Trujillo is more or less guranteed for these birds, however whilst it was beautiful, sunny and bright the strong gale force wind meant that dust was everywhere and you struggled in the wind to see anything. Thankfully both ♀ & ♂ Montys showed really well. The ♂ in particular was hunting all the time and a good number of birders present all got really good views.
With a few birders scanning around, other species were seen and one of the specialities, Great Bustard was found at least 1 mile away in incredible wind and heat haze. To say it was distant is an understatement, but it was seen, or perhaps it was a bush.
Whilst the Montys kept eveyone entertained every so often large numbers of Griffon Vultures would appear from out of nowhere. Also in amonst them was the very occasional Black Vulture.
Black Kites were far and away the commonest bird but finally managed to catch up with Thekla Lark which is so difficult to identify from the commoner Crested Lark.
After a long period watching anything that moved we drove into Trujillo and found a Supermarket which had lots of fresh fruit and we stocked up on food and petrol whilst we could.
Our first day in Extremadura and and our 1* B&B didn’t really make anywhere near 1*. If anyone is thinking of stopping in Talavan, don’t, keep going, do not stop and head further West towards Monfragüe. There is literally nothing whatsoever there. It was pretty difficult to find anywhere so bad but we managed it. Still it made us appreciate the nicer places.
Unable to get any food in the village as nothing seemed to open before 10, we headed off and our first visit was to a local Reservoir. This is known as Embalse de Talavan. Allegedly there are 2 hides there but realistically there are some bits of timber fencing that offer nothing.
We now noticed the temperature was much higher than down in the South of Spain and by 11 am it was really hot. Black Kites were still very abundant and the odd Bee-Eater was seen as we drove. At the Reservoir we did see 2 Black Winged Stilts and a very vocal Great Reed Warbler. White Storks were nesting on the Electricity pylons and Butterflies were everywhere, however the heat made getting any photgraphs of them impossible.
Just down the road (EX-390) we came upon a site for Crag Martin and Alpine Swift. Parking just off the road on a bridge over looking the river Rio Almonte in a deep gorge allowed us to watch these birds at close quarters, the swifts are much larger than our Common Swift.
Following Dave Gosney’s guide we drove further on to a known site for Black Shouldered Kite, however the known site was a good few years out of date as there was no sign of these majestic birds. A few other birders were also at the site and between us we picked up a pair of Bonellis Eagle. They were very distant and never came closer.
Crested Lark were very common in the area, as were White Stork and Black Kite.
On the return back to Tavalan we did find a Short Toed Snake Eagle perched on the Electricity Pylons.
Before our epic journey from Doñana National Park to Extremadura we spent the morning at El Acebuche Nature Reserve approximately 8 miles to the south of El Rocío. The reserve was very similar to the one at La Rocina but there appeared to be a few different species to be found.
The woods held Golden Oriole, Serin and other common woodland species whilst the heathland had Woodchat Shrike, Corn Bunting and Stonechat in abundance. Next to the visitors centre were a few Azure Winged Magpies and the usual Black Kites were everywhere.
It was at this time we headed North to Extremadura and a tiny village called Tavalan. The journey took an eternity and you only now begin to realise just how large Spain is. Still after a 5 hour journey we did reach our destination and only saw common species on the way.
The morning was spent at the local Centro Ornitológico in El Rocío. The upstairs balcony is a great place to sit and relax, set up the Scope and scan the Wetlands. This mornings birds included Gadwall, Black Headed Gull, Great Black Backed Gull, Common Sandpiper and all yeterdays quality birds as well.
The afternoon was spent at La Rocina Nature Reserve, where we saw Turtle Dove, Stonechat and Woodlark. There is a nice circular walk around the Reserve which takes in a variety of Habitat and if you are in the area, its certainly worth visiting.
The walkway at El Rocío. which contours the lakeside is a great place to see Great Reed Warbler. The call is unmistakable and sadly its only brief views you get of the bird climbing up the reeds. The other highlight is of Little Bittern. This seemed to appear better later in the evening.
Day one in El Rocío and only a 5 minute walk to the Centro Ornitológico. This is the Spanish equivalent to our RSPB and a wonderful visitors centre which overlooks the Doñana National Park, well a very tiny part of it. The area is just as I imagined the French Camargue. Vast lakes and Wetlands over a huge area. Something that here we would surely have drained, developed or ruined by now. It is a wonderful area and sadly we didn’t spend nearly enough time here. To be fair the area alone would jusify a holiday in its own right.
Within half an hour of arriving at the Cente the heavens opened and we got a couple of hours of steady rain. This would be the only rain of the holiday so it was relatively refreshing. The first birds seen were Cattle Egrets, not one or two but literally 50 or 60 birds nesting in the local Acacia trees. Also Glossy Ibis, Night Heron, Grey Heron and the most beautiful Greater Flamingo were present in large numbers.
Also seen were Egyptian Geese, Black Kite, Green Sandpiper, Magpie, Mallard, Pochard, Red Crested Pochard, Squacco Heron, Little Egret, Grey Heron, Marsh Harrier, White Stork, Greylag Goose, Shellduck, Moorhen, House Sparrow, Goldfinch, Spotless Starling, Great Reed Warbler, Reed Warbler, Sedge Warbler, Grasshopper Warbler, Nightingale, Azure Winged Magpie, Swallow, House Martin, Booted Eagle, Bee-eater, Hoopoe, Swift, Little Grebe, Serin, Chaffinch, Tern sp, Crested Lark, Spoonbill, Woodchat Shrike, Griffin Vulture, Collared Dove, Wood Pigeon, Little Bittern, Black Winged Stilt, Night Heron, Nightjar, Red Rumped Swallow and Cuckoo.
In the afternoon we walked to the local Nature Reserve “La Rocina” where we saw Bee-Eaters on lots of the wires, Nightingales were singing everywhere and Serin and Woodchat Shrikes were in abundance. The Reserve is only a 1 mile walk out of the town, and you get a different perspective of the area if you walk along the old road and across the bridge.
On walking home after another lovely meal in the Restaurant we heard in the distance the unmistakeable Churring of Nightjar.
Doñana National Park and Extremadura 2018 